A woman-run cafe in Indonesia's strict Sharia region shakes up discrimination

In what is said to be the only female-run cafe in Indonesia's conservative provincial capital, owner Qurrata Ayuni says she and her baristas are providing an alternative to a sad, smoke-filled male environment.

The 28-year-old opened Morning Mama last year to create a place for women in Banda Aceh, known as the city of 1,001 coffee shops.

“I thought why not open a place that is comfortable for women?” he said.

Although the province has long been known as the site of the world's deadliest tsunami and decades-long separatist insurgency, Aceh's main tourist attraction is often coffee.

The traditional “sanger” latte, mixed with condensed milk, is a popular base.

Aceh's strong connection with coffee began centuries ago with the Dutch colonial rulers. Now, farmers there grow world-famous beans in fertile areas.

Aceh continues to attract attention for its ultraconservative values, including municipal laws requiring Muslim women to wear hijabs.

Although women are not banned from working in Indonesia's only Muslim-majority region to impose Islamic law, running a coffee shop is seen as a man's job.

“It is very difficult for women in Aceh to pursue education or work, facing not only legal restrictions but also social exploitation,” said Andreas Harsono of Human Rights Watch.

Despite widespread criticism, public caning remains a common punishment for many crimes in the state, including gambling, drinking and extramarital affairs.

Independent career paths are considered out of reach for Aceh's young women, but Qurata was not discouraged.

– 'Time to change' –

Qurrata, who owns the cafe without a business partner, saw the need for a place for women to work or meet friends.

She and her team of baristas pour fresh coffee to the many hijab-wearing customers, with children's books and menstrual pads available for use nearby.

“There is no smoking, no noise, it's really comfortable,” he said, adding that other men also have coffees in his shop.

“It is a statement that women own businesses, make decisions and lead,” he said.

“Now is the time for change.”

This businessman says that women are stepping up, pointing out at least 1,000 applicants for the barista job.

“I want to give them a chance to change their lifestyle,” he said.

Caca, a 23-year-old barista, said it's a “really cool job” that's rare in Aceh.

Restaurant regulars praise Morning Mama as a place where women can be themselves.

“I feel more connected when I ask something from a female barista,” said 21-year-old student Meulu Alina. “I don't feel nervous. It's like talking to your sister.”

– Helping others –

Before starting his business, Qurata overcame the loss of his parents at the age of eight during the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, which killed more than 200,000 people.

His village near Banda Aceh was completely destroyed, but he survived and was raised by his aunt and uncle.

Qurata said she wants to convey her grief to help other women.

“It's a platform to help others find their fitness, like I did,” she said.

The photography jobs allowed him to build savings and self-confidence, and he entered the business after his uncle encouraged him and helped him financially.

Some women were “afraid to start”, she said, for fear of men saying bad things.

“People here like to believe that women should stay at home,” she said.

But “the older generation understands that times have changed.”

The owner of Aceh's famous coffee shop, Solong, Haji Nawawi, said that he will not hire women but the locals welcome them to make coffee in other places, calling it “normal” since Aceh entered the province.

Qurata employs five women and two men.

Her income fluctuates, but Qurata says her main goal is to inspire other women.

“Women are capable of doing more than we are often praised for. We can be leaders, creators, and innovators,” he said.

“So don't sit still. Don't be afraid.”

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